Virginia City, Nevada

Jill's Journal: After enjoying the hilarious Outhouse Races in Virginia City earlier this month, I very much wanted to spend a little more time exploring this historic town in the heart of the Comstock Lode. And historic it is – it’s actually the nation’s largest historic district. The entire town was designated a National Historic Landmark 50 years ago. There’s a disproportionate number of little museums all over the town, but we didn’t go in any and instead just enjoyed the ambiance of such a quaint place.

When silver was discovered in 1859 in the surrounding area known as the Comstock Lode, Virginia City was born almost overnight. The mining boomtown flourished in the sudden wealth of the area (which, by the way, yielded about $400 million over the next 30 years). Virginia City was actually credited with being the richest city in America during its heyday. There were about 30,000 residents then; today there are fewer than 1,000.

Visiting Virginia City is a whole lot like stepping back in time. There may be cars on the streets these days instead of horses and mules, but the sidewalks are still wooden and a tremendous majority of the buildings are from the town’s boom 150 years ago. Establishments still have names like “Bucket of Blood Saloon” and one can still spot town landmarks like a “Suicide Table.” (Apparently more than one gambler lost his fortune at the table and gave his life to the grief of the situation).

Why was it named Virginia City? Legend has it one of the men involved in discovering the Comstock Lode, James Fennimore, was nicknamed “Old Virginy” after his home state of Virginia. It wasn’t meant to be a compliment, however, as it was widely known Fennimore had fled Virginia after committing murder.

Mark Twain was born in this building. Not literally, but he came to town as Samuel Clemens and left as Mark Twain. He first began using the pen name while here on the editorial staff at the Territorial Enterprise (the town newspaper).

The lovely St. Mary’s in the Mountains, billed as Nevada’s first Catholic church.

This is the Fourth Ward School, built in 1876 to house over 1,000 students.

The Silver Terrace Cemetery is a fascinating glimpse into Virginia City’s past. Once 11 distinct cemeteries, the group of burial grounds was merged in 1867. Since Virginia City was a great melting pot for fortune-seekers from all over the world, most of those buried had their hometown along with their name and date of death on their tombstones.

On the stones which can still be deciphered, most fascinating are the epitaphs. A great example:

In perfect health I left my home,
Not thinking that my race was run.
But as flowers grow, so they decay
And sudden death snatched me away.

And another:

Stop and read as you pass by,
As you are now, Once was I.
As I am now, you will be,
Prepare for death and follow me.

Who comes up with this stuff?? What fun.