Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Just for Fun: 50 Spots

Jill's Journal: Just for fun, when we left on our RV journey 14 1/2 months ago, I began keeping a log of each spot we spent the night in while living in our fifth wheel. To our amazement, we’ve already reached 50 different places! That seems like a big number.

Here’s the breakdown:

38 campgrounds
7 parking lots
5 private backyards/acreages
and
22 states

Twenty-two states is the part that surprised us, as we’ve spent so much time in Oregon and California. But, we traveled at a feverish pace for our first six months as we raced to make our way up the Eastern Seaboard and through New England before last winter. We’ve definitely slowed down and learned to smell the roses a little bit more.

Out of those 22 states, there’s only four that we feel “done” with, or satisfied that we saw all of the really important stuff: Oregon (after this week), Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Delaware. Many others (including our “home” state of Kentucky), we spent time in but didn’t get to “finish.” And, if we ever have nothing else to do, we could definitely spend more time in those four finished states because one never gets to truly see everything.

I think that says we’ll be on the road for a long time to come. Yay!

Monday, August 22, 2011

Crater Lake National Park…simply breathtaking

Jill's Journal: “I didn’t expect it to be so beautiful,” said Victoria, age 3 1/2.

Rob and I did expect it to be so beautiful, but it still managed to take our breath away. Yes, Crater Lake is breathtaking. There aren’t too many other words to describe it.

We spent the entire day yesterday on and around Rim Drive, a 33-mile feast for the eyes which encircles the lake. The views are nothing short of spectacular. The narrow two-lane road hugs the lake as closely as possible and is literally on the rim of the caldera that holds Crater Lake. On one side is the vast, pristine body of water and on the other is equally phenomenal views, varying from mountain ranges and pine forests as far as the eye can see to everything from desert to snow to aged lava flows to wildflowers to waterfalls just inches out the car door.
The lowest part of the rim is approximately 7,100 feet and the highest 8,151 feet. It’s covered in snow much of the year and, in fact, was only fully able to open 3 1/2 weeks ago at the very end of July. Traditionally, it is forced to close again by heavy snow sometime in mid-October.

We’ve been fortunate to take a lot of beautiful drives on this trip, we really have. Some are called the most beautiful drives in America, but I’d have to say Crater Lake’s Rim Drive can easily go toe-to-toe with any of them.

We’ve also been blessed to visit some of America’s National Parks on this trip. Granted, we haven’t been to Yosemite or Yellowstone or Glacier yet, but Crater Lake National Park has got to be one of America’s crown jewels.

And the lake itself! Its waters are the bluest blue imaginable. Its depths are the deepest in North America. Its beauty is unsurpassed. The sheer cliffs all around the lake, many up to 2,000 feet tall, make it almost completely inaccessible, which adds to its mystique. There are no beaches. The cliffs go right to the water’s edge. There is only one access point, one cliff that offers the most determined visitors a doorway to the pristine blue water. It’s 1.1 miles down with a 700-foot elevation drop. We’ll go on that hike later this week for a boat tour. It’s not the hike down with three kids that intimidates us; it’s the hike back up, the equivalent of climbing 65 flights of stairs! We’re preparing the girls early for the journey (we warned them it would be something like our Oregon Trail hike), and they all agreed it would be worth it.

Around 7,000 years ago, the “crater” that makes Crater Lake was a volcanic mountain called Mt. Mazama. The massive 12,000-foot mountain towered more than a mile in the air above today’s lake level. It experienced a series of dramatic eruptions, believed to be the biggest ever in North America, and collapsed in on itself, creating the great caldera, or crater, which holds the lake. Before it filled with water, more eruptions occurred and it is believed the resulting lava flows helped “seal” the caldera’s floor. This allowed melting snow and rain to gradually accumulate with nowhere to go. To this day, no stream runs in or out of the lake, making it a “closed” ecological system. The lake is considered one of the purest and most pristine in the world. Because it is fed only by rain and snow, Crater Lake is the cleanest large body of water in the world. The clarity that provides helps give it its intense blue color.

Wizard Island is actually a volcanic cinder cone, very similar to Lava Butte in Bend, which we visited a week ago. It rises 767 feet above the water.

That itty-bitty boat visiting Wizard Island is bigger than it looks. It actually holds 40 tourists.

Although the first white man to discover Crater Lake was John Wesley Hillman in 1853, Indians knew about it for thousands of years. It was sacred to them and they hid its existence to outsiders. They believed gazing upon the waters was fatal. Native legend reveals one Indian journeyed to the lake’s depths while it was still dry. “On the crater floor he saw fissures, mounds, huge gnarled rocks, and a strange yellow substance that resembled gold.” –Crater Lake National Park

The 183,000 acres that hold Crater Lake and its surroundings were turned into a National Park in 1902. The Lodge was opened in 1915. Although it’s not as grand or elaborate as the Lodges we saw at Oregon Caves or Timberline, the splendor of the surroundings sort of makes up for that!

The girls found the Great Hall’s fireplace plenty cozy, however.

Depending on the area, Crater Lake is 4 1/2 to six miles wide. Its depths plunge 1,943 feet, making it the deepest lake in North America and the seventh-deepest in the world. It averages 44 feet of snowfall annually. This past season well exceeded the average with 673 inches, or over 56 feet of snow. Park rangers point out this is the equivalent of nearly two inches of snow falling daily for an entire year.

This is “Phantom Ship,” a remnant of an ancient volcano called Phantom Cone. It’s made out of dense lava and is the oldest exposed rock in the Crater Lake caldera.

The lake originally contained no fish, but a man hand-walked a bucket of fish 40 miles to the lake in the 1800s and now there’s no getting rid of them. Because they threaten the natural system, fish are not welcome in the lake and visitors are encouraged to fish for the rainbow trout and kokanee salmon as much as possible.

Yesterday was just an introduction for us to the marvel that is Crater Lake. We’ll be spending a lot more time here in the coming week.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Crater Lake

Jill's Journal (Rob's Pictures): Today we were blessed to take in the grandeur of Crater Lake for the first time. I’m not sure there are too many places on Planet Earth more beautiful. It is truly one of God’s most spectacular masterpieces.

R. - I made up some panoramas for today - one for each major stop where we could see a good portion of the lake.  I've also included one shot of Phantom Ship.  Be sure to click the pictures to see them full-(web)size, but in all honesty, these pictures do not do this place justice.

Our first view of the Lake.  We came in from the North entrance
and stopped at the first lot.

Second stop, moving counter-clockwise around the lake.  Wizard Island
in the center - notice the greens and teals in the shallows.  And yes,
that white stuff - it is snow.

Final panoramic of the day.  From the North just above Cloud Cap, the
colors along the shoreline were amazing.  The girls were watching the
wind paterns on the lake, which the late-afternoon sun highlights.

One final shot of Phantom Ship.  We had a short, fun hike to get to this spot.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Farewell Bend

Jill's Journal: A few days ago, I wrote that early settlers named Bend “Farewell Bend.” I suspect it was because they hated to leave it. The bipolar (part high desert/part pine forest) mountain playground grew on us pretty quickly too.

Rob cracked me up as we were leaving this morning. Safety first! We’re headed to a place for the next week where the nearest convenience store appears to be 45 minutes away and the nearest major grocery store about 90 minutes away. To prepare, we shopped for the whole week, which is no small feat with a miniature fridge and pantry.

Like a boy scout, Rob always likes to be prepared. Before we started living minimally, he liked to have backups for his backups. The horrific thought of running out of beer this coming week must have made him revert to his old ways. And then to strap them into his front seat…I couldn’t help but laugh.

No grocery stores for miles is worth it when you’re heading to scenery like this. That’s Mt. Thielsen, or Big Cowhorn, an extinct shield volcano, ahead.

The sky just seems a little bluer here. Our home this week is Crater Lake. We’re been looking forward to this stop; we’re so excited to be here.

Friday, August 19, 2011

Bend, Redmond, and Sisters

Jill's Journal: We’ve been busy the last few days in Bend and the neighboring small towns of Redmond and Sisters. Oregon has an abundance of wonderful regions, but this one might be our favorite. Of course, I’m saying that in the middle of what has turned out to be a late but beautiful summer…I can’t guarantee I’d be so enthusiastic in the dead of winter.

This picture overlooking Bend toward the Sisters was taken from the summit of Pilot Butte, a cinder cone in Bend.

From the same spot, overlooking Bend toward Mt. Jefferson.

One of Central Oregon’s iconic names is Goody’s, a chocolate and ice cream maker. The girls and I took the factory tour.

They got to hold cocoa pods and learn how the beans inside are dried and separated into cocoa nibs and cocoa hulls. Cocoa butter and cocoa powder are byproducts. It’s the nibs that make the base of chocolate; hulls are best used as mulch.

All of Goody’s chocolate is made by hand. Chocolate makers like this lady turn out 500 pounds of chocolate a week. It’s barely a drop in the bucket compared to a giant like Hershey’s, but it’s the perfect amount to satisfy Central Oregon’s collective sweet tooth.

Goody’s ice cream is 16% cream; we were told ice cream is usually 12-13% cream. No wonder that sample they gave us was so rich and delicious! Goody’s makes 120 gallons of ice cream daily.

The cute town of Redmond held a highlight for me. I loved driving past the fields of Painted Desert Farm, a small Thoroughbred farm known throughout the industry for their unusual niche of colored Thoroughbreds. Rob joked, “Anyone can breed a fast horse, but only we breed the pretty ones.” Sorry, that probably isn’t funny to people outside of racehorses (but I thought it was hilarious!).

The highlight in Redmond for the girls was the truly bizarre Petersen Rock Garden.

In the first half of the 1900s, an immigrant named Rasmus Petersen spent 17 years creating all sorts of sculptures and structures out of rocks. There are all kinds of castles, bridges, the Statue of Liberty, an American flag, and several other things...all made out of rocks.

It was definitely an eclectic place, but very, very strange. We’d seen reviews where people raved about Petersen Rock Garden, but it left us very lukewarm. Although you don’t see it in these pictures, there was a lot of junk strewn about and the whole place was pretty unkempt. We certainly appreciated the handiwork that went into all the creations, but maybe we just don’t find enough wonder in rocks? On second thought, that could definitely be the problem. I once took a Geology class in college…it did not go well.

What had to be dozens of peacocks were strutting all around the rock garden. What beautiful birds. The colors!

Madelyn stood so patiently still in hopes they would come closer to her, as did her sisters. In fact, the peacocks came within a few feet of all of us. How different it was from the times we’ve seen them in a zoo.

Another darling, tiny town outside of Bend is Sisters. I really loved this place, which boasts just 2,038 residents. It is just adorable, with 1800s-era facades all throughout downtown. The people are friendly and the mountain views are spectacular. Tourism is clearly big here as downtown was swarming with tourists (and yes, I suppose that included us!).

First, a couple of mountain views to set the mood…this is South Sister and North Sister. I believe Middle Sister is hiding behind North Sister. All the Sisters have elevations over 10,000 feet, making them the third-, fourth-, and fifth-highest peaks in Oregon.

I have no idea what mountain this is…but it’s still awfully picturesque!

In downtown Sisters, we went to lunch at an Oregon tradition called Bronco Billy’s. The building is one of the most photographed in Central Oregon and was originally the home of Hotel Sisters, built in 1912.

The girls loved the small touches, like the pant legs and boots hanging above the saloon doors.

We got a kick out of Sisters Jail and thought it would be perfect to have our little set of sisters pose in it. Two were not amused, and were in fact offended by the humor we found in it! Our lone good sport today was Madelyn, who did her best to give me a mean jail face. However, there’s a smirk blooming under that glare.

Our most fun stop in this cute town was Sisters Drug & Gift. My lifelong dear friend Jennifer has a beloved cousin, Stefanie, who runs this store. Jennifer and I decided to surprise her.

We found Stefanie, who of course had no idea who I was and understandably must have thought it very odd for a complete stranger to hand her a phone. What she didn’t know was that Jennifer was on the line waiting to say hello. What a surprise! We had so much fun, just a complete ball.

This picture of Stefanie and her sweet daughter Emili is for Jennifer. Jennifer swears Stefanie and I met when we were both a part of her wedding 19 years ago (can it really have been 19 years?), but I don’t remember Stefanie and she doesn’t remember me. We’ve now shared enough laughs that I don’t think we’d forget each other again. Some people you just love instantly (or at least on the second go-round!). Stefanie is one of those people.

Another Three Sisters view from Sisters. They were once called Charity, Hope, and Faith, but the names didn’t stick.

And because we just can’t get enough of these spectacular mountain views, here’s one more on the way back to Bend. To the left of the Sisters is Broken Top.

And for good measure, one final shot of Mt. Jefferson too before we leave Bend tomorrow.