Marvelous Monterey

Jill's Journal: We’ve been in Monterey for nearly two weeks and we’re not sick of it yet. It is a truly lovely place to visit, with a wealth of things to see and do and experience. The only thing we’ve missed out on is the vast seafood fare that Monterey dining is known for, but it’s worth skipping to keep our daughter safe. Madelyn has a life-threatening allergy to the proteins in cooked fish. We didn’t have the same problem in places like Maine, Massachusetts, and Maryland since their famous fare – lobsters, clams, crabs, etc. – is all shellfish and thankfully doesn’t present the same risk.

Monterey was not only the first capital of California, but it was also the “Sardine Capital of the World.” In 1896, the first true cannery was in operation. By the 1920s, the sardine industry in Monterey had gone wild with workers processing over 250,000 tons of sardines annually. Monterey still holds the distinction of being the largest fishery of a single species of fish in the history of the United States. Massive canneries were established along the waterfront street now known as “Cannery Row,” thanks to the 1945 John Steinbeck novel of the same name. Incidentally, it wasn’t Steinbeck who coined the term, but a now-unknown writer for the local paper in 1919. In addition to sardines, the most harvested fish here included squid, red abalone, Chinook salmon, and chameleon rockfish.

In the 1940s, the sardine population in Monterey suddenly underwent a rapid decline and by the 1950s most of the bustling canneries were reduced to the equivalent of abandoned warehouses. The last one to close was the Hovden Cannery, which lasted until 1973 after switching from sardines to tuna and squid. The Hovden Cannery is now the home of the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Monterey didn’t fold, however, and the resilient town realized what a treasure remained in the scenic location and rich waters teeming with sea life. Tourism is now the #1 business here and the Cannery Row warehouses have all been converted into busy shops and restaurants.

While much of Monterey’s history focuses on fishing, I find it amazing that the native people of the bay are believed to date back almost as far as 3000 BC. It wasn’t until 1542 that the first Spanish explorer entered Monterey Bay and 60 years later that another explorer claimed California for Spain. Today, a well-marked “Path of History” traces many historic steps.

The highlight, hands-down, is the whalebone walk in front of the Old Whaling Station adobe. Built in 1847 as a home, the adobe was converted into an onshore whaling operation in 1855. The front sidewalk is made out of whale vertebrae shaped into diamond pavers. Although apparently whalebone sidewalks were not uncommon at one time, this is the last remaining sidewalk in Monterey made out of whalebone and believed to be the last in the country. Fascinating!

Speaking of whalebones, the entrance of “California’s First Theatre” is also adorned with them. There are rib bones making an archway of sorts around the front door. This building was originally built in 1845 as a home and tavern out of wood salvaged from a shipwreck. It marks the start of California’s entertainment industry, as a stage, benches, whale-oil lamps, and curtains made out of red and blue blankets had been added by 1850 when the owner started producing melodramas. First-night receipts totaled $500, which must have been an absolute fortune at the time.

This is the former French Hotel, known these days as the Robert Louis Stevenson House. It was here, on the second floor of the 1840 boarding house, that one of the world’s most famous authors lived for several months in 1879 as he recuperated from traveling illness, won the hand of his future bride, and wrote. Among the manuscripts inspired here was one of his best-known, Treasure Island.

Monterey has so many special little touches found in random places, like this doorknob’s backplate on a random old building. Love it!

The Royal Presidio Chapel, built out of stone in 1791 and the fourth church to stand on this spot, has watched Monterey’s history unfold as its feet. It is the oldest structure on the Monterey peninsula, the oldest church in continuous use in California, the first architect-designed building in California, and the smallest current cathedral in the continental United States. This National Historic Landmark was designated as “royal” two centuries ago because Alta California’s Spanish governor attended the church while representing the King of Spain.

These might be my favorite front doors ever.

Inside, several examples of the original walls prior to restoration work remain. Beautiful. I have been pleasantly surprised by the historic delights we’ve discovered in Monterey. It was far easier for the girls, at their young ages, to identify with and understand things like the Pilgrims, but hopefully they’ll look back on this sort of history someday with newfound interest. They constantly amaze us with the things they do remember, so I think more of it is sinking in and being retained than we even realize.