The Biggest Little City in the World

Jill's Journal: Ready or not, it is time for us to get back out into the world. I think I need to verify that the sky is somehow still blue, the breeze somehow still blows, and that life somehow still hums around us. We decided to visit some of the iconic Reno, Nevada, spots as we slowly ease back into sightseeing.

Of course, the most iconic spot in all of Reno is the site of the famous arch right in the hub of downtown. This is the third arch to grace this spot since 1926. The famous Reno slogan, “The Biggest Little City in the World,” was the result of a contest the city held in 1929 to find a catchphrase. A Sacramento man won $100 for his slogan and, in spite of some Renoites (yes, that’s what residents call themselves) thinking it dated in 1934, it’s stuck ever since.

The original 1926 refurbished arch is installed on a side street not far away from the main arch. It was originally built to celebrate the Nevada Transcontinental Highway Exposition after the completion of the Lincoln and Victory Highways. Incidentally, Reno’s second arch, which stood from 1963 to 1987, was donated to the city of Willits, California. Oddly enough, we saw it there in May.

In the 1850s, a few pioneers settled in the general area of what is today known as Reno. The area was then called Truckee Meadows, as the Truckee River, Lake Tahoe’s only outlet, flows through the area on its way to the desert’s massive Pyramid Lake. The California Trail followed the Truckee westward before branching off toward Donner Lake and the crossing of the Sierras.

With the discovery of silver at the Comstock Lode in 1859, a man named Charles W. Fuller built a toll bridge across the Truckee River so travelers could reach the Comstock Lode’s Virginia City from the California Trail. Two years later, he sold his bridge to Myron C. Lake, who officially founded Reno (first called Lake’s Crossing), with a livery stable, grist mill, kiln, and other important community businesses. Lake’s home has endured and a picture of it is above.

Clearly a visionary, Lake deeded land to the Central Pacific Railroad in exchange for a depot at Lake’s Crossing. Within a short time, the railroad station became the largest settlement between Sacramento and Salt Lake City on the first transcontinental railroad. Reno became an official town in 1868, with the Central Pacific Railroad naming it after Union officer Jesse Lee Reno, who was decorated in the Mexican-American War and was killed in the Civil War at the Battle of South Mountain in Maryland.

Maybe because of its mining history and the lawlessness that accompanied a whole lot of young men with a whole lot of disposable income, Reno quickly capitalized on decadence and pleasure. Long before Las Vegas was known as “Sin City,” Reno held the title. Reno’s fate as a gambling town was sealed in 1931 when Nevada legalized casino gambling. Prior to the late 1950s, Reno was the gambling capital of the U.S.

But even more interesting, Reno was known as the “Divorce Capital of the World.” With liberal divorce laws when many other states had stringent requirements for divorce or didn’t allow it at all, Reno became a destination for those who wanted “the cure” for a bad marriage. It was publicized as early as 1909 as America’s “divorce headquarters.”

The Virginia Street Bridge, above, spans the relatively short distance over the Truckee River. But, it is steps from the courthouse where divorce was readily granted. It became tradition for freshly-minted divorcees to toss their wedding rings into the river. Even Marilyn Monroe did so in the 1961 film, “The Misfits.”

Las Vegas has long since overtaken Reno as a place of spectacle, but Reno occasionally tries for a little spectacle of its own. This 120-foot tall replica of a mining rig under the world’s largest composite dome (in the Silver Legacy Casino) is an example. We had to walk through the casino floor to get there. The girls are growing accustomed to seeing slot machines and the like in just about every public building around – from restaurants to gas stations to grocery stores – but these things always catch their attention and this was their first time in a full-blown Nevada casino. Their eyes nearly popped out of their heads at all the fantastically blinking lights and simulated action. I wonder if kids who live in Nevada learn to tune this stuff out? Or perhaps it’s not so overt outside of tourist areas.

We enjoyed one last Reno icon before calling it a day. We’ve heard nothing but raves about Bertha Miranda’s, a Mexican restaurant. Turns out they were all right. We can’t attest to the whole menu, but the tamales are out of this world.

Thank You

Jill's Journal: To those who commented here on our little blog or wrote us personally during this rough time, thank you. Thank you for praying for us and thank you for letting us know you care. You have made us feel loved. Truly, thank you.

Happy News Turned Sad

Jill's Journal: Erika colored a picture of today’s beautiful sunrise of pinks and oranges over the mountains for me this morning, a quiet reminder for me that each dawn is a new beginning.

Life can turn from so sweet to so…painful on a dime. Rob and I were chomping at the bit to soon announce the impending addition of a new baby to our family, but God had other plans. After some signs of complications this weekend, an ultrasound yesterday confirmed the baby no longer had a heartbeat.

There have been lots of tears shed here and I’m sure there will be many more as we grieve, mourn, try to cope with this loss, and eventually, hopefully, prayerfully, move on to a new normal. We’ve suffered the raw anguish of miscarriage before, although much earlier in pregnancy, and it’s devastating no matter when it happens, no matter whether a couple has no children or 10 children. This baby was so wanted, so loved already. And is so missed, already.

Forgive me if I’m quiet on these pages for at least a few days.

Donner Memorial State Park near Truckee, CA

Jill's Journal: It was in the fall and winter of 1844-45 the first wagon train successfully crossed the Sierra Nevada mountain range. They camped at what would eventually be named Donner Lake (shown above), only to decide the majority of their wagons and provisions would not be able to reach the summit. Much was left behind (along with three men), while the balance traveled on to Sutter’s Fort in what is now modern-day Sacramento. It was four months before the last of the group was able to trickle into Sutter’s Fort.

That party may have been the first wagon train to successfully cross the Sierras, but it was two years later (in 1846-47) what would become the most famous, or infamous, of the wagon trains attempted the same crossing. Known today as the Donner Party, the group of 89 veered off the main trail in Wyoming on a presumed shortcut. A map in a guidebook entitled “An Emigrant’s Guide to Oregon and California” appeared to cut 200 miles off the journey. Instead, it cost them six fateful weeks.

Back on the main trail, the Donner Party found themselves trapped in October of 1846 at Donner Lake in heavy snow and an early winter. Five foot snow drifts left them unable to go forward or backward. Repeated escape attempts proved fruitless. It has been well documented how their provisions were quickly depleted, their oxen and livestock were butchered, and the survivors turned to the gruesome desperation of cannibalism. Only forty-seven of the original 89 survived. Many were women and children.

The face of this rock was used as the north end (and the fireplace) for one of the several rough cabins built for shelter by members of the Donner Party. In June of 1847, a General passing through buried the bodies he found in the area under the floor in the middle of the cabin, or roughly under where the trail passes now.

Dedicated to all the brave souls who made the grueling journey across the Sierras to California in the 1840s, the Pioneer Monument is near the Donner campsite. The base of the monument measures 22 feet high, the same height of the snow during that terrible winter of 1846-47. It was unveiled in 1918 in a ceremony that included Donner Party survivors. The whole area is a National Historic Landmark.

The Emigrant Trail Museum at Donner Memorial State Park is small and dated, but it does have some wonderful artifacts from the Donner Party. It also features Donner items found in an archeological dig on the site. A new museum is being built which promises to really showcase the history of the area.

We weren’t really dressed for the snow, but that doesn’t thwart kids, does it? Erika got the most out of the area as we’d picked up a book at Sutter’s Fort called “Patty Reed’s Doll” and she’d quickly devoured it. Eight-year-old Patty Reed was one of the Donner Party’s survivors. When they’d had to leave their belongings behind (long before reaching the Sierras), little Patty Reed snuck her tiny, approximately four-inches-tall, wooden doll into her dress pocket. The doll provided her with comfort and companionship during the bleak winter. Erika so enjoyed her story.

Madelyn flashed her toothless grin at gathering up snow in an empty water bottle. She wanted to do “an experiment” to see if it would melt. It most certainly did. :) If only the Donner Party had been so lucky.

Fellow Campers

Jill's Journal: Last week, we spent time with Rob’s old friend Caroline and her new husband and daughter, Brian and Alicia, at their home in Tahoe City. This weekend, they came camping with us! They have a brand-new camper and we were excited to reserve the spot right next to us for them. The kids had such a time together sharing treasures, sharing meals, and playing for hours upon hours (and the adults had a ball getting to know each other better).

Our girls’ only complaint was that there was but one Alicia and three of them. They each would have liked her for their own personal friend. Sometimes they’d rather not share and this was definitely one of those times.

Happily, Brian can play just like one of the kids and was frequently called upon to join in.

That left plenty of time on the sidelines for the grown-ups to catch up. It was such a treat to “camp” (I use that term loosely since we’re not exactly roughing it) with friends…we think all of our friends and family should come "camping" with us!

Sometimes…

Jill's Journal: Sometimes the most memorable part of a day has nothing to do with the hours spent homeschooling or the time spent sightseeing or at a playground.

Sometimes the most memorable part of a day has everything to do with something simple, like impromptu window shopping at a pet store. Of course, the nice family we met with rebellious hermit crabs hell-bent on escape didn’t hurt either.

Outhouse Races

Jill's Journal: On a whim, we decided to spend a day at the annual “World Championship Outhouse Races” in Virginia City. We had absolutely no idea what we were getting into, but it certainly didn’t sound like something that can be found in too many other places so we were game. What a hoot!

Three-person costumed teams in decorated outhouses race their way 100 feet down the main drag in this historic town while spectators hoot and holler.

One person rides on the “throne” while two push from behind.

The finish line is toilet paper, naturally.

The whole thing is sponsored by the Mustang Ranch, the famous brothel. Some of the costumes floating around were pretty entertaining.

The trophy is a toilet seat, of course.

All the outhouses have names, ranging from “Party Pooper” to “Flapper Crapper” to “The Urinator.” The girls thought this one was the prettiest…they either didn’t notice or didn’t care that the “bride” was a man.

I loved this little old lady. She was so intense!

The “Plungerettes” entertained the crowd.

Even canines got into the spirit of the day. This dog had painted toes.

The sidewalks in Virginia City are still wooden and most of the town is a national historic landmark. We can’t wait to come back and explore more during a "normal day" while we're in the area.

The views around here contain the hills of the world-famous “Comstock Lode.” Virginia City, along with neighbors Gold Hill and Silver City, held one of the richest gold and silver deposits ever found. This was once called “the Richest Place on Earth.”

Now it’s a lot of stunning vistas with barren hills. If you keep your eyes peeled while driving, it’s easy to spot an extreme number of barricaded and collapsed mine entrances. There was gold and silver in “them thar hills.” This area must have been crawling with prospectors a century and a half ago.

Winter Already?

Jill's Journal: It felt like summer just a few days ago, but last night the air got markedly colder. What can only be described as a winter storm came in. Here, at 4,800 feet in Carson City, we got pummeled by rain and high winds. But that’s nothing compared to Tahoe! Yesterday, those mountains were clear – not a speck of white anywhere. Here’s what they looked like this morning.

Vaccination Blues and Sisterly Love

Jill's Journal: Whew. I’m glad that’s over.

In the 16 months we’ve been on the road, we’ve been blessed with good health for our three little ones and, happily, have had no need to visit a doctor. However, after turning four last month, Victoria was due for some immunizations, the last four boosters in her early childhood series. After having no luck in Tahoe, I was thrilled to find a pediatric practice here in Carson City that would take us. She and I set off early this morning for our appointment.

Victoria walked in with trepidation and walked out with what I hope isn’t a lifelong distrust of doctors. The doctor was nice, but the nurse was brusque and the “pinches” I’d warned her about upset her terribly. I’d told her ahead of time they would put medicine in her legs to help keep her healthy in the future, but that was no consolation. She was so sad, poor child. Then she was mad. And she’s not a child who forgets -- I have a feeling the next time I mention “doctor” to Victoria, she’ll run and hide.

I felt so bad about her misery that as I was trying to soothe her tears, I resorted to the oldest Mom trick in the book. I told her she’d been very brave and brave girls should get ice cream on the way home. Ten minutes later, on the way out the door, she told me, “It doesn’t hurt as much now. I don’t need ice cream anymore.”

I told her I was glad her legs were better and that we could still get ice cream. This very grown-up little 4-year-old said, “No, that’s okay. Not without my sisters.” Bless her heart! I love that these girls love each other so much.

Wild, Wild West

Jill's Journal: Most of the time I’ve spent previously in Nevada has been in Las Vegas, land of glitz and more glitz. Reno and Carson City have their share of casinos and a little bit of glitz too. Imagine our surprise yesterday to be driving on a major road on the outskirts of Carson City and to suddenly spot a herd of wild Mustangs.

There they were, just hanging out like it was the most normal thing in the world.

I’ve always heard about wild horses in Nevada and hoped the girls would be able to see some. We never dreamed it would happen so easily, on our first full day in Carson City! It was a thrill.

While out of the car snapping pictures of the horses, I noticed this sign…can you read the last line in pink? It says, “No Sex Required” and certainly piqued my interest. We had to head down the road. The signs got more risqué.

At the end of the road was the “Moonlite Bunny Ranch,” a real, honest-to-goodness, fully sanctioned, licensed, legal, operating brothel! We are most definitely in the wild, wild west. Nevada is the only state in the Union which has legal prostitution (and only in certain counties).

After our unexpected little detour, we spent the day at the hilarious “Outhouse Races” in Virginia City, which I’ll share more about soon. This is absolutely the wild, wild, wonderful West.

But in the meantime, Madelyn lost her second tooth in three days. Isn’t she adorable with a big, gaping hole where her top teeth used to be?

Unfortunately, she lost it during dinner and somehow managed to swallow it. Poor thing; she felt terrible she didn’t have a tooth to give to the Tooth Fairy. She had me transcribe a note using her exact words:
“Dear Tooth Fairy,
I’m sorry that you couldn’t take my tooth because I accidentally gulped it down, but could you still give me my money? Please (because I want to be polite).
Love,
Madelyn”

20 Years Ago

Jill's Journal:

On this day, I’m feeling nostalgic.



Twenty years ago, in 1991…

*George H.W. Bush was president, Dan Quayle was vice president
*Brett Favre was first drafted in the NFL
*An amateur video captured Rodney King’s beating by the LAPD
*The Cold War formally ended
*Movies in theatres included Silence of the Lambs, City Slickers, and Terminator 2
*Operation Desert Storm began
*Magic Johnson announced he had HIV
*Serial killer Jeffrey Dahmer was arrested
*Michael Jordan and the Chicago Bulls won their first NBA championship
*Boris Yeltsen was the first elected president of Russia

And on this particular day, 20 years ago, Rob and I stepped out on our first official date. We were babies, but somehow, we got lucky enough to find each other so early in life. Twenty years. Wow.

From the Golden State to the Silver State

Jill's Journal:
Funny story: In Tahoe City the other day, we ran into probably a dozen people that Rob knew. Several of them asked where we were headed next. Invariably, as soon as we said, “Carson City,” each one visibly winced and said, “Carson…why?”

I figured the capital of Nevada couldn’t be that bad. But tonight, we’re in a not-so-nice campground and the people next to us are blasting music that began with John Denver, moved on to 80s power ballads, and can now only be described as some sort of bizarre Latino opera/gospel combination. Whatever it is, the singer of the moment sounds like he’s dying an agonizing death. How I’d love to put him out of his misery.

We weren’t planning to be in Carson City proper, but the decent-looking campground we were headed to out of town required a 10-mile drive on a mountain pass. At the foot of the road was a big flashing digital sign warning, “Danger: High Wind Advisory. Trucks, Trailers, RVs Not Advised.” There were already strong winds and Rob remembers seeing a video years ago about tractor trailers overturning on that very road. We decided it was safer to brave the Latino death music than Mother Nature.

In the meantime, we’ve found a halfway-decent campground near town on a road not under the mercy of wind. We’ll move tomorrow. Here’s hoping Carson City improves off our first impressions! If not, we’ll pay a little more attention the next time people wince.